Author: John and Jenny

Day 7, 16 July 2019

My stay at the Hospice was pleasant and restful, but I was already restless to be back on the trail.

The postal bus took me to Gondo. There another bus was waiting to go to Zwischbergen. So I took that and saved myself 2.5 hours that I anticipated being dull.

From Zwischbergen the hiking was through forest, not yet alpine terrain. Once I reached Tschawiner See it was more alpine.

If John skinny-dips in an alpine lake and he does not take a selfie, did he make a splash?

It was cold; I must be out of practise.

At Rifugio Gattascosa a simple lunch of cheese and cold meats was good.

Yet it was too early to stop, though the next stage is “easy” and 5 hours. So I decided to keep on; there are other places to stop.

Philippe had mentioned a great bivouac. When I reached it I could not believe my eyes. It has all comforts, including a fire stove.

I made a fire which took the edge off the chill. Lucas and I chatted to the small hours, meaning 10 pm.

The moon tonight is full, beautiful and low over the alps.

John

Day 5

Today I walked alone yet had some interesting encounters.

The terrain was more agricultural.

Philippe took one look at me and recognised a like-minded hiker: light shoes and pack, equipped to be independent.

He had not got the memo and was walking south to north; most of us are going the other way.

His aim is performance and he has walked in 30 days what my book suggests takes 60 days.

We exchanged information about good bivouacs and restaurants, then got onto hard-core equipment issues. He even put up his super-light tent, one I have considered many times. Am I going to buy it …..

I do not know how long we talked, but it was fun.

On the other side of the pass I came to a road. Although it looked like nobody drove it, I decided to follow it and hitch-hike.

Angela gave me lift. We chatted between French and Italian. When we arrived at Varzo, I appreciated the ride all the more because it was a long way.

I went to Varzo only to get cash. Leaving was a challenge: no bus, no train, and no easy walk. Nobody offered me a lift either.

I walked along the road until it joined the main road. Suddenly I was in a bad place. This road was very narrow with barriers on both sides, lots of fast two-way traffic, and a tunnel ahead; walking it was not an option. Going backwards was not easy either.

A speeding small blue car pulled out of the stream and braked hard in front of me.

“I saw you were in a bad place and decided to give you a lift”, she said. We chatted easily and she drove me all the way to the Hospice de Simplon.

Where I ended up having a glass of wine and sharing stories with a senior Swiss politician (whom I had not recognised).

A good day for meeting people.

John

Day 4

Leaving Alpe Devero I passed through a group of stone buildings and up a forest path. I came upon a flock of sheep with some goats mixed in. I watched the shepard lead his sheep to a spur; he whistled and they all followed.

The path goes through a wide bassin that is soggy due to the late snow.

The first pass, Scatta d’ Orogna, had the tamest goats I have met: I turned for a photo but had to swing around and pull away a goat that wanted to eat my backpack.

After the descent, walking along the side of a lake in snow, I came to a critical point; I was with a couple of other hikers.

The original pass around the cliff face had been damaged by an avalanche in spring. A detour had been built, which meant a long climb down then back up over snow. Six Italians went along the original path and assured us it was safe enough.

We decided to follow them.

Parts of the path are not even; shards of rock bigger than me are scattered across it.

At the second pass, Passo Di Valtendra, we were hit by the wind. We retreated below the pass to take off our backpacks. A couple of minutes at the top for photos were enough.

Then I put on my wind jacket, gloves and beanie for the walk down the snow on the other side.

Beyond the snow it warmed up as I descended through a forest.

Alpe Veglia was the end-point, with a friendly refuge.

John

Day 3

The refuge Margaroli, where I stayed, was very friendly. The food was good and I met a few people hiking the same route.

The path starts along a lake where many spring flowers are in bloom. I never tire of their beauty.

Maybe the long flat stretch allowed me to warm up, but the climb was easier, and I felt I hit my stride.

At the “Scatta Minoia” pass I met a group sheltering in a big hut, “Bivacco Ettore”. I have not seen many shelters at the top of a pass. Painted bright red and white it must be easy to see in fog.

We all started the long descent together but quickly spread. Snow still covers a lot of the pass.

The trail goes the length of lake Devero before reaching Crampionlo. The village has been renovated, renewing the stone_roofed buildings.

Alpe Devero is the end of today’s walk. It is larger and more spread out, with many beautiful stone buildings.

John

Day 2

The hut was dark, so I slept in and had a late start.

The day started with sunshine, but became overcast.

Hiking up the pass was hard, so I was glad I had stopped the previous day.

With the snow, the descent was a challenge.

Arriving at the refuge it was good to have a simple lunch.

John

Day 1

I had a late start from Cruina.

Leaving Geneva at 35° I was surprised by how much snow there is on the passes. Finding your way is harder, and slower.

We had hiked the Griespass a few years ago and were surprised by the aeolian. Now there are 4.

Just beyond the pass is a tiny chapel / shelter. In the early 50’s 9 scouts went hiking in perfect weather; 6 came back.

As adults, those 6 built the chapel in memory of their friends. Now it is well maintained.

I had expected to make it to the next refuge, but was behind schedule. Alpe Nefelgiù was a welcome sight. A stone hut with an elevated wooden platform to sleep on, shelter from the weather; luxury can take on different meanings.

I slept well.