Italy

Day 4

Leaving Alpe Devero I passed through a group of stone buildings and up a forest path. I came upon a flock of sheep with some goats mixed in. I watched the shepard lead his sheep to a spur; he whistled and they all followed.

The path goes through a wide bassin that is soggy due to the late snow.

The first pass, Scatta d’ Orogna, had the tamest goats I have met: I turned for a photo but had to swing around and pull away a goat that wanted to eat my backpack.

After the descent, walking along the side of a lake in snow, I came to a critical point; I was with a couple of other hikers.

The original pass around the cliff face had been damaged by an avalanche in spring. A detour had been built, which meant a long climb down then back up over snow. Six Italians went along the original path and assured us it was safe enough.

We decided to follow them.

Parts of the path are not even; shards of rock bigger than me are scattered across it.

At the second pass, Passo Di Valtendra, we were hit by the wind. We retreated below the pass to take off our backpacks. A couple of minutes at the top for photos were enough.

Then I put on my wind jacket, gloves and beanie for the walk down the snow on the other side.

Beyond the snow it warmed up as I descended through a forest.

Alpe Veglia was the end-point, with a friendly refuge.

John

Day 3

The refuge Margaroli, where I stayed, was very friendly. The food was good and I met a few people hiking the same route.

The path starts along a lake where many spring flowers are in bloom. I never tire of their beauty.

Maybe the long flat stretch allowed me to warm up, but the climb was easier, and I felt I hit my stride.

At the “Scatta Minoia” pass I met a group sheltering in a big hut, “Bivacco Ettore”. I have not seen many shelters at the top of a pass. Painted bright red and white it must be easy to see in fog.

We all started the long descent together but quickly spread. Snow still covers a lot of the pass.

The trail goes the length of lake Devero before reaching Crampionlo. The village has been renovated, renewing the stone_roofed buildings.

Alpe Devero is the end of today’s walk. It is larger and more spread out, with many beautiful stone buildings.

John

Day 2

The hut was dark, so I slept in and had a late start.

The day started with sunshine, but became overcast.

Hiking up the pass was hard, so I was glad I had stopped the previous day.

With the snow, the descent was a challenge.

Arriving at the refuge it was good to have a simple lunch.

John

Day 1

I had a late start from Cruina.

Leaving Geneva at 35° I was surprised by how much snow there is on the passes. Finding your way is harder, and slower.

We had hiked the Griespass a few years ago and were surprised by the aeolian. Now there are 4.

Just beyond the pass is a tiny chapel / shelter. In the early 50’s 9 scouts went hiking in perfect weather; 6 came back.

As adults, those 6 built the chapel in memory of their friends. Now it is well maintained.

I had expected to make it to the next refuge, but was behind schedule. Alpe Nefelgiù was a welcome sight. A stone hut with an elevated wooden platform to sleep on, shelter from the weather; luxury can take on different meanings.

I slept well.