GTA – Rocciamelone, looking down on the world

Posted on by John and Jenny

Ten minutes into my hike, it started raining and the clouds were dark and low. I went and did something else.

Two days later, 8 August, I was back to hike the 1,700 m ascent in clear weather.

The climb to Rifugio Tazzetti was straight forward; I had lunch.

From there it was a climb up a crest with views to Rocciamelone.

Above the crest it started to get hard. There was climbing, and I was having trouble finding the path.

After a while I stopped counting the grave stones and concentrated on climbing.

Two younger men caught up with me and we started hiking together. It became easier, being with other hikers.

Next we came to the glacier. It is wider than I had been told. My friends had crampons; I did not.

There is no marked path, but we found our way. Getting off it was tricky.

The final ascent is up an exposed crest, buffetted by strong winds.

It was an exciting hike, but there were moments I was scared.

It was worth it.

View from Rocciamelone.

One of the young men said to me: “Respect. That was a hard hike.”

I was touched.

John

GTA – Walking in the Clouds

Posted on by John and Jenny

Day 27: 5 August 2019

Leaving Balme was a long climb in mostly clear weather. Over the Colle Costa Fiorita, 2,465 m, the cloud rolled in.

Sometimes, when hiking, a song goes through your mind in repeat. “Walking in the rain”, Grace Jones cover, became walking in the clouds.

The landscape became eery, fading in and out of view.

Someone had recommended staying at the Albergo Rocciamelone in Usseglio.

It has an old-world charm and home made gelato. So I had coffee and gelato as I considered my options.

Staying was tempting, but they were full.

Reading my guide book I learnt I can hike Rocciamelone, the mountain: 3,538 m.

So I headed to Refugio Vulpot for the night. Here they explained my options to get there.

GTA – Piamprato to Talosio

Posted on by John and Jenny

Day 22: 31 July 2019

A long bus ride took us to Ronco. All the hikers and backpacks filled the small bus.

The bus dropped me in front of the post office. My tent and some other kit are now in the post, lightening my backpack a lot.

White cows with black tails watched me pass.

I went through a pass and asked two men the way. They pointed lazily. When I came to a cliff, one came after me and told to come back, then showed me the correct path.

At Colle Crest, the day’s highest point at 2,040 m, the sign was decked with drying clothes of two people sleeping beside it.

At Talosio the Posto Tappa is again an old school.

John

GTA – Fondo to Piamprato

Posted on by John and Jenny

Day 21: 30 July 2019

The air was clear today.

Walking up a gentle valley beside a pretty stream. The pools were hard to resist for a swim, but I was worried I would lose my momentum.

At a small family farm I asked if I could buy cheese. One of the young sons disappeared into a cellar in the rocks and came back with a small round of cheese; “it is a bit young”. Both sons were shy. I bought half of the cheese. It made a good lunch.

It was a steep climb to Bocchetta delle Oche, 2,417 m.

On the way I met the men clearing the path. It is good to be able to thank those who make this possible and exchange a few words.

John

GTA – Rifugio Chiaromonte to Fondo

Posted on by John and Jenny

Day 20: 29 July 2019

The air was clearer in the morning giving good views over the busy plain.

Hiking down was straight forward, leading through Succinto, a village which announces when it got electricity and a road.

Fondo is deep at the end of the valley, with a beautiful bridge built in the middle ages.

The next stage is described as long and difficult, so I stay here.

John

GTA – Trovinasse to Rifugio Chiaromonte

Posted on by John and Jenny

Day 19: 28 July 2019

Much of the walk down was on old mule trails. So much work to build, and now mostly used by hikers.

Closer to the valley bottom are terrassed vinyards. The feet of the vines are planted back against the wall, trained up 2 m and spread on trellaces to get maximum sun.

In the valley all the private gardens were rich with fruit and vegetables.

Quincinetto is tiny with only one bar open. Gelato and coffee were welcome.

Then began the steep climb to La Capanne. The track emerged at a hair-pin bend. Cars coming, I stuck my thumb out and got a ride all the way up.

Sunday, there was a big fiesta, organised the last Sunday of every July.

Happy to have been given a ride, still I wanted to hike more. So I started the next stage.

I arrived later than I expected at a closed refuge, so decided to camp there.

John

GTA – Decisions, decisions

Posted on by John and Jenny

Day 17: 26 July 2019

“Celui qui regarde trop la méteo, reste au bistrot.”, is a French saying among sailors that roughly translates as: if you watch the weather forecast closely you will not get out and play.

Those of you who have sailed with me might remember some exhilarating moments.

For two days the talk amongst hikers has been about the forecast violent storms for Saturday and Sunday. Where to stay?

Some decided to stay at Oropa. Arriving there, I decided to keep on for the next stage; there were a few options to stop on the way.

The gondola up to the start of the hike disappeared into clouds. Did this make sense?

As I walked the air switched between cold cloud and warm sun.

I arrived at Rifugio Coda at about 15:00. Staying was possible, but if it meant spending two nights, it would have been long. It was already lost in clouds.

The next stretch was really tough: climbing along the crest and an ever receding hilltop. To the left a cold wind blew clouds upwards, to the right it was warm and dry.

“Bushwhacked” is a great Australian word which conveys somewhat more than being lost.

Off the crest I was bushwhacked. I wasted an hour looking for the trail. Now I was going to arrive late without knowing if there was a bed and whether I could get food.

The agriturismo welcomed me and prepared food even though I arrived at about 21:00. It has been one of the best meals I have had so far.

John

GTA – Refugio Rivetto to Santuario San Giovanni

Posted on by John and Jenny

Day 16: 25 July 2019

Last night we had the spectacle of local trail runners climbing 1,100 m in 45 minutes, drinking beer and wine, having dinner, then running back down using headlamps. They laughed on the way down.

My descent took two hours.

Rosazza is surprisingly big with grandiose buildings.

It was a pleasant stroll through forests to Santuario San Giovanni.

John