GTA

Day 21: 30 July 2019

The air was clear today.

Walking up a gentle valley beside a pretty stream. The pools were hard to resist for a swim, but I was worried I would lose my momentum.

At a small family farm I asked if I could buy cheese. One of the young sons disappeared into a cellar in the rocks and came back with a small round of cheese; “it is a bit young”. Both sons were shy. I bought half of the cheese. It made a good lunch.

It was a steep climb to Bocchetta delle Oche, 2,417 m.

On the way I met the men clearing the path. It is good to be able to thank those who make this possible and exchange a few words.

John

Day 20: 29 July 2019

The air was clearer in the morning giving good views over the busy plain.

Hiking down was straight forward, leading through Succinto, a village which announces when it got electricity and a road.

Fondo is deep at the end of the valley, with a beautiful bridge built in the middle ages.

The next stage is described as long and difficult, so I stay here.

John

Day 19: 28 July 2019

Much of the walk down was on old mule trails. So much work to build, and now mostly used by hikers.

Closer to the valley bottom are terrassed vinyards. The feet of the vines are planted back against the wall, trained up 2 m and spread on trellaces to get maximum sun.

In the valley all the private gardens were rich with fruit and vegetables.

Quincinetto is tiny with only one bar open. Gelato and coffee were welcome.

Then began the steep climb to La Capanne. The track emerged at a hair-pin bend. Cars coming, I stuck my thumb out and got a ride all the way up.

Sunday, there was a big fiesta, organised the last Sunday of every July.

Happy to have been given a ride, still I wanted to hike more. So I started the next stage.

I arrived later than I expected at a closed refuge, so decided to camp there.

John

Day 18: 27 July 2019

Good food, forecast bad weather, it was easy to stay a day here.

The weather forecast was accurate; we had a violent hail-storm. It was good to be sheltered.

Yesterday’s decisions were good.

John

Day 17: 26 July 2019

“Celui qui regarde trop la méteo, reste au bistrot.”, is a French saying among sailors that roughly translates as: if you watch the weather forecast closely you will not get out and play.

Those of you who have sailed with me might remember some exhilarating moments.

For two days the talk amongst hikers has been about the forecast violent storms for Saturday and Sunday. Where to stay?

Some decided to stay at Oropa. Arriving there, I decided to keep on for the next stage; there were a few options to stop on the way.

The gondola up to the start of the hike disappeared into clouds. Did this make sense?

As I walked the air switched between cold cloud and warm sun.

I arrived at Rifugio Coda at about 15:00. Staying was possible, but if it meant spending two nights, it would have been long. It was already lost in clouds.

The next stretch was really tough: climbing along the crest and an ever receding hilltop. To the left a cold wind blew clouds upwards, to the right it was warm and dry.

“Bushwhacked” is a great Australian word which conveys somewhat more than being lost.

Off the crest I was bushwhacked. I wasted an hour looking for the trail. Now I was going to arrive late without knowing if there was a bed and whether I could get food.

The agriturismo welcomed me and prepared food even though I arrived at about 21:00. It has been one of the best meals I have had so far.

John

Day 16: 25 July 2019

Last night we had the spectacle of local trail runners climbing 1,100 m in 45 minutes, drinking beer and wine, having dinner, then running back down using headlamps. They laughed on the way down.

My descent took two hours.

Rosazza is surprisingly big with grandiose buildings.

It was a pleasant stroll through forests to Santuario San Giovanni.

John

Day 15: 24 July 2019

Hiking is experiencing nature.

And surprising encounters.

Many trails are old trading routes, often for smugglers.

Three horses, two men and a few dogs came round a bend. I had time to get out of their way.

A photo of eight bottoms did not seem interesting.

John

Day 14: 23 July 2019

Just before Alagna is Pedemont, with many beautiful barns that remind me of Valais.

Alagna Valsesia looks like a ski resort. One shop was open selling ripe fruit. I bought apricots, prunes and a small dark purple prune I have never seen. Then I sat and ate them all.

To finish this stage was walking along a road. I was offered a lift all the way.

The refuge here is attractive, so I decided to end early and stay the night.

John

Day 13: 22 July 2019

A climb to Colle d’Egua before a long descent to Carcoforo.

Carcoforo appears as a dense network of stone roofs. Once in the town it is pretty, with some Walser buildings.

Lunch was cold meats and cheese.

The next stage is described as long and challenging. Rather than spend the afternoon in Carcoforo, I decided to start the next stage. Two water points along the way offered potential places to stop and camp.

There was nowhere to camp. The second water point was at a goat farm with a guard dog. He merely growled as I passed, but made it clear stopping was not welcome.

As I was making good time I continued to Rima.

Rima is pretty and prosperous. It is higher than many villages which gives it a good view.

John

Day 12, Sunday 21 July 2019

Everyone speaks about a great restaurant at Rimella, and I was looking forward to trying the antipasti.

Yet Sunday lunch, was a family gathering likely?

All they would serve me was pasta. Oh well, keep moving.

I hiked through deserted villages and villages that are renewing themselves.

Alpe Baranca is reputed for a warm welcome and good food. After compleyeing two days hiking in one, I arrived just in time to enjoy both.

John