Italy

Day 14: 23 July 2019

Just before Alagna is Pedemont, with many beautiful barns that remind me of Valais.

Alagna Valsesia looks like a ski resort. One shop was open selling ripe fruit. I bought apricots, prunes and a small dark purple prune I have never seen. Then I sat and ate them all.

To finish this stage was walking along a road. I was offered a lift all the way.

The refuge here is attractive, so I decided to end early and stay the night.

John

Day 13: 22 July 2019

A climb to Colle d’Egua before a long descent to Carcoforo.

Carcoforo appears as a dense network of stone roofs. Once in the town it is pretty, with some Walser buildings.

Lunch was cold meats and cheese.

The next stage is described as long and challenging. Rather than spend the afternoon in Carcoforo, I decided to start the next stage. Two water points along the way offered potential places to stop and camp.

There was nowhere to camp. The second water point was at a goat farm with a guard dog. He merely growled as I passed, but made it clear stopping was not welcome.

As I was making good time I continued to Rima.

Rima is pretty and prosperous. It is higher than many villages which gives it a good view.

John

Day 12, Sunday 21 July 2019

Everyone speaks about a great restaurant at Rimella, and I was looking forward to trying the antipasti.

Yet Sunday lunch, was a family gathering likely?

All they would serve me was pasta. Oh well, keep moving.

I hiked through deserted villages and villages that are renewing themselves.

Alpe Baranca is reputed for a warm welcome and good food. After compleyeing two days hiking in one, I arrived just in time to enjoy both.

John

Days 10 and 11: 19 to 20 July 2019

The descent from Alpe della Colma included walks on terraces built for chestnut trees.

After lunch in Molini, I had a steep climb to the unmanned Rifugio Alpe del Lago. Michel arrived late so we chatted over breakfast.

It was foggy most of the day. Bivacco Alpe Pian Lago was better situated than where I had stayed: water and a stunning view, although all I saw was fog.

Campello Monti is surprisingly pretty. This is my first “Posto tappa”, an old school converted to dormitories for hikers.

John

Andi asked me to publish this photo.

We had passed a fun night at Rifugio Alpe della Colma.

Olindo has taught music, so when someone picked up a guitar, he joined in with his guitar and harmonica. All the hikers sang.

Day 9: 18 July 2019

The food is good and Patricia and Olindo welcoming.

Today I stay here.

A short walk to a hill top to admire Monta Rosa, but she hides under cloud.

We were 10 for dinner. One person plays guitar, so we had a singalong. Olindo is a music teacher so he kept adding instruments. His harmonica playing on Dylan was superb.

John

Day 8: 17 July 2019

Luxury: there was some coffee in the bivouac. So Lucas and I chatted and shared a light breakfast. Which made for a late start.

I arrived at the end-point, Refugio Cheggio, too early to stay. Reading the guide book, the next refuge was described as having good food.

So I stuck out my thumb and got a lift down the valley road to the foot of the 1,000 m climb.

I arrived just in time for dinner and received a warm welcome.

The setting is great.

John

Day 7, 16 July 2019

My stay at the Hospice was pleasant and restful, but I was already restless to be back on the trail.

The postal bus took me to Gondo. There another bus was waiting to go to Zwischbergen. So I took that and saved myself 2.5 hours that I anticipated being dull.

From Zwischbergen the hiking was through forest, not yet alpine terrain. Once I reached Tschawiner See it was more alpine.

If John skinny-dips in an alpine lake and he does not take a selfie, did he make a splash?

It was cold; I must be out of practise.

At Rifugio Gattascosa a simple lunch of cheese and cold meats was good.

Yet it was too early to stop, though the next stage is “easy” and 5 hours. So I decided to keep on; there are other places to stop.

Philippe had mentioned a great bivouac. When I reached it I could not believe my eyes. It has all comforts, including a fire stove.

I made a fire which took the edge off the chill. Lucas and I chatted to the small hours, meaning 10 pm.

The moon tonight is full, beautiful and low over the alps.

John

Day 5

Today I walked alone yet had some interesting encounters.

The terrain was more agricultural.

Philippe took one look at me and recognised a like-minded hiker: light shoes and pack, equipped to be independent.

He had not got the memo and was walking south to north; most of us are going the other way.

His aim is performance and he has walked in 30 days what my book suggests takes 60 days.

We exchanged information about good bivouacs and restaurants, then got onto hard-core equipment issues. He even put up his super-light tent, one I have considered many times. Am I going to buy it …..

I do not know how long we talked, but it was fun.

On the other side of the pass I came to a road. Although it looked like nobody drove it, I decided to follow it and hitch-hike.

Angela gave me lift. We chatted between French and Italian. When we arrived at Varzo, I appreciated the ride all the more because it was a long way.

I went to Varzo only to get cash. Leaving was a challenge: no bus, no train, and no easy walk. Nobody offered me a lift either.

I walked along the road until it joined the main road. Suddenly I was in a bad place. This road was very narrow with barriers on both sides, lots of fast two-way traffic, and a tunnel ahead; walking it was not an option. Going backwards was not easy either.

A speeding small blue car pulled out of the stream and braked hard in front of me.

“I saw you were in a bad place and decided to give you a lift”, she said. We chatted easily and she drove me all the way to the Hospice de Simplon.

Where I ended up having a glass of wine and sharing stories with a senior Swiss politician (whom I had not recognised).

A good day for meeting people.

John