GTA: The end

31 August 2019

On the hike to Colla Mosse I decided to stop. I got a lift to Sanremo.

After a few days I went to Ventimiglia and walked a couple of kilometres back up the trail. Then I walked into Ventimiglia and to the sea.

I finished my hike, my way.

My phone had stopped working, so sadly I have no photos of my arrival.

It was a great hike, and I met many good people.

John

Gouda cheese market

Gouda cheese market was first started in 1395.  The cheese wheels are delivered by horse and cart, then stacked on the ground by the farmers, before being sold in a traditional manner. This market is held every Thursday morning from April until the end of August in between Gouda’s city hall and the weighing house, which is also a cheese museum.

The farmers and traders, in white coats, clap hands to confirm each sale, a very theatrical spectacle.

Nowadays, some 60% of Dutch cheese is produced in the region surrounding the city of Gouda. It is known as “Cheese valley” (although there is not one hill on the horizon 😉).

 

Le marché aux fromages de Gouda existe depuis l’an 1395. Les meules de fromage sont amenées par des charrettes tirées par des chevaux et empilées sur le sol par les fermiers. Ceci se passe sur la place du marché entre le vieil hôtel-de-ville et la maison où étaient pesées les denrées et qui est aussi un musée du fromage.

Les fermiers et les commerçants, en blouse blanche, confirment leur accord sur chaque vente par un ballet de tapes de main, un spectacle très théâtral.

De nos jours, environ 60% de la production de fromages néerlandais se concentre dans la région de Gouda, dans ce qui est surnommé “la vallée du fromage” bien que pas la plus petite colline ne soit visible à l’horizon 😉).

GTA – Accordeon

25 August 2019

In my early years in Geneva I saw a film, “La Trace”, which I enjoyed.

It tells the adventures of a man who travels from France to Italy, before they were countries, selling ribbons and buttons and sewing materials.

Somewhere in the plain in Italy he meets a German selling accordeons, and buys one.

The accordeon becomes a character in the film.

Today I stopped at Rifugio Morelli for a coffee. There on the table stood a beautiful, small accordeon.

Paolo Giraudo told me he is a carver and started making accordeons. He has made about 40.

The one I admired is not for sale; he made it for his daughter from old chestnut wood he recovered from furniture.

Today I had my Italian accordeon moment.

GTA – Strange stones

15 August 2019

It was a beautiful alpine hike over a couple of passes, starting at the beginning of the river Po.

I came to a field of stones pointing to the sky. At first I thought it was natural, and some were.

Hundreds were man-made.

Next was a small brown cliff-face that people had inserted grey stones into.

All a mystery to me.

The day ended with fireworks in the village where I stayed

John

GTA – Rocciamelone, Brocken Spectre

Hands up anyone who has heard of a Brocken Spectre. Nor had I.

An English-speaking man asked if I had seen my Brocken Spectre? See yourself in a rainbow that circles you. The conditions are right, and rare.

I could not understand what he was saying.

So he took me to the top of the cliff, the sun low behind us, clouds rising from the valley.

There was my shadow on the cloud with a rainbow around it.

John

GTA – Rocciamelone, looking down on the world

Ten minutes into my hike, it started raining and the clouds were dark and low. I went and did something else.

Two days later, 8 August, I was back to hike the 1,700 m ascent in clear weather.

The climb to Rifugio Tazzetti was straight forward; I had lunch.

From there it was a climb up a crest with views to Rocciamelone.

Above the crest it started to get hard. There was climbing, and I was having trouble finding the path.

After a while I stopped counting the grave stones and concentrated on climbing.

Two younger men caught up with me and we started hiking together. It became easier, being with other hikers.

Next we came to the glacier. It is wider than I had been told. My friends had crampons; I did not.

There is no marked path, but we found our way. Getting off it was tricky.

The final ascent is up an exposed crest, buffetted by strong winds.

It was an exciting hike, but there were moments I was scared.

It was worth it.

One of the young men said to me: “Respect. That was a hard hike.”

I was touched.

John

GTA – Walking in the Clouds

Day 27: 5 August 2019

Leaving Balme was a long climb in mostly clear weather. Over the Colle Costa Fiorita, 2,465 m, the cloud rolled in.

Sometimes, when hiking, a song goes through your mind in repeat. “Walking in the rain”, Grace Jones cover, became walking in the clouds.

The landscape became eery, fading in and out of view.

Someone had recommended staying at the Albergo Rocciamelone in Usseglio.

It has an old-world charm and home made gelato. So I had coffee and gelato as I considered my options.

Staying was tempting, but they were full.

Reading my guide book I learnt I can hike Rocciamelone, the mountain: 3,538 m.

So I headed to Refugio Vulpot for the night. Here they explained my options to get there.